This recipe is essentially the classic French dish steak au poivre—pepper steak—except that the beef is replaced by venison, whose rich flavor balances the peppercorns and cream. Serve this with your boldest Bordeaux.
Makes two servings.
Ingredients:
2 8oz venison loin steaks
4 teaspoons peppercorns, at least black plus green and white if possible
1 tablespoon unsalted button
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 cup, plus 1 teapspoon, brandy, preferably cognac
1/2 cup heavy cream
sea salt, to taste
Remove the steaks from refrigeration at least 30 minutes, preferably 60 minutes, prior to cooking.
Coarsely grind the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle or crush with the bottom of a heavy pan. You want them just coarser than the coarsest setting on a peppermill. Sprinkle all sides of both steaks with salt. Place the peppercorns evenly across a piece of parchment paper and press the venison, on both sides, into the paper so that the peppercorns cover the surface and are embedded fairly deeply.
In a skillet over medium heat, add the butter and olive oil and melt. When the butter begins to smoke—but do not let it brown—add the venison to the skillet. For medium rare, cook about four minutes per side. Move the venison to a plate and cover in tinfoil.
Remove the pan from the heat. Pour off all but a half tablespoon or so of the remaining fat. Carefully add the 1/3 a cup of cognac. With a grill lighter, or by deftly tipping the pan into the gas burner, light the cognac ablaze. Shake the pan until the flame dies out.
Return the pan to medium heat and add the cream. Stir, bringing the sauce to a boil, until it reduces by half, about five minutes. Add the teaspoon of cognac and salt to taste.
Return the venison steaks to the pan and spoon the sauce over. Serve immediately with creamy polenta on warm plates.
Variation: This recipe, modulo the deer, is my steak au poivre dish. The French traditionally use a New York strip, but here I prefer a filet mignon. For medium rare, a 6oz one inch thick tenderloin will need about 3.5 minutes per side.
Something that I do with the Venison Pat's family sends before I start cooking it is to soak the steaks in a little milk for a minute. (pat or shake dry after) I do this perticularly for people who don't think they like venison, as it mellows out the flavor amongst other things.
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