Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Sweet Corn Risotto with Black Trumpets

Summer in Boston finds plenty of sweet corn in the farmers' markets. The best use: grilled, smothered in spicy aioli, covered in melted cotija, and sprinkled with cayenne powder. My second favorite preparation is sweet corn risotto—which plates perfectly with an aromatic, flavorful mushroom such as black trumpet.

Makes about 4 servings.

Ingredients:

1 cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice
4 medium-sized ears sweet corn
1 cup black trumpet mushrooms, cleaned
1 large sweet yellow onion, such as Vidalia, chopped
2 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4-5 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, preferably Stravecchio or Riserva
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
cayenne powder, to taste
freshly-ground white pepper, to taste
gray salt, to taste

In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Reduce to a simmer.

Using a knife, scrape the kernels off the corn and reserve. Into a separate container, run the back of the knife down the cob, squeezing out the milk. Cut off any large, moist pieces of pulp and reserve along with the milk.

Heat a saute pan over medium heat. Add the butter. Once bubbling but not browned, add the onion, corn, and a pinch of gray salt. Saute until the onion is soft and translucent but not brown, about five minutes. Add the garlic and thyme, plus white pepper and cayenne powder to taste. Saute about 30 seconds. Add the rice and stir constantly, coating the rice in the oil, about two minutes. Add the mushrooms and bay leaf and stir to incorporate.

Add the corn milk and any pulp. Stir until evaporated.

Decrease heat to low. Add a ladle-full of chicken stock to the pan, just enough to cover the rice. Stir constantly, until the stock is all but completely gone. Continue, a ladle at a time, until the risotto is cooked, slightly al dente, and creamy. This should take 30 to 40 minutes.

Remove bay leaf. Fold in the cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Adjust seasonings. Let return to temperature. Serve. Pairs well with a full-bodied Chardonnay.

Variations: White truffle oil drizzled or black truffles shaved over the finished risotto both make a great garnish, but you want to be careful not to overwhelm the subtle sweetness of the corn.

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