Pesto alla Genovese

For me, pesto is hit or miss. From the Italian pestâ, to pound or crush, the condimento is either this bitter, oily glop or a deliciously-fresh and light sauce. You have to make it yourself, you should eat it fresh, you cannot cook it, and you need to get the pesto-to-pasta ratio right. With those rules in mind, this recipe produces a delicious, bright green sauce.

Makes enough for 1 lb of pasta.

Ingredients:

2 cups basil leaves, lightly-packed, preferably Genovese or other sweet basil
1/4 to 1/2 cup olive oil, traditionally Ligurian but go with your favorite peppery oil
3 tablespoons pine nuts
3 tablespoons finely-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, preferably Stravecchio or Riserva
1 tablespoon finely-grated Pecorino-Romano
1 clove garlic, smashed
two pinches gray salt
one pinch freshly-ground black pepper
one pinch ground cayenne pepper

In a small skillet over medium heat, add the pine nuts and lightly toast until brown, shaking the pan continuously, about 4 to 5 minutes.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the basil, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Pulse several times, until the basil is chopped. While the food processor is running, add the cheese, toasted pine nuts, and garlic. Process several seconds, until incorporated. Again with the processor running, slowly add the oil until a creamy paste forms.

Pesto will keep several days, or months if frozen, although I recommend eating it fresh. Store in a tight-lidded jar, topped with olive oil to prevent the basil from darkening.

To serve with pasta, cook 1 lb of pasta until just al dente. Long or angular pasta, such as bucatini or cavatappi, respectively, pairs best. Drain pasta, reserving about a 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid. Remove the pot from heat and return pasta. Stir in the pesto, a little at a time until you reach the desired proportion, allowing the pasta to warm the sauce. If the dish is too dry or if the pesto is not coating the pasta, add a little of the reserved liquid. Top with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt, and freshly-ground black pepper as desired. Serve immediately.