Ragù alla Bolognese

I'm not Italian, but your sweet nonna is. Of course her ragù bolognese is the world's best. I bet it is decadent and delicious. Also, not as good as mine. Life is tough, nonna.

Ragù, Italian from the French ragoût, is a meat sauce used as a pasta condimento. Veal, pork, liver, and even horse meat is simmered for hours with soffritto and perhaps a little milk and tomato, until deliciously thick.

The most common ragù, if not also the tastiest, is ragù bolognese, often called bolognese sauce in North America. Originating from Bologna, capital of Emilia-Romagna, the dish is onions, carrots, and celery sauteed in rendered pancetta, and then combined with beef and pork, deglazed with white wine, and finally slow cooked with milk and a little tomato. Almost universally a tomato-based sauce in the states, the authentic recipe is a ragoût of meat, with minimal tomato.

Recipes differ. Some swap beef for veal or white for red wine. Others add chicken or goose liver, mushrooms, or sausage. This is my recipe, but its faithful to the dish's history. I use veal instead of beef, light cream in lieu of milk, and add chicken liver, but otherwise adhere closely to tradition. Note: Even if liver is not your thing, do not skip it. I promise it is the key to beating your nonna's recipe.

Ragù alla Bolognese

Mise en Place

Makes 2-3 cups, generally sufficient for 4-6 servings as a pasta condimento.

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 pound pancetta, batoned into lardons
5 shallots, diced
2 medium celery ribs, chopped
1 medium carrot, chopped
4 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1/2 pound ground pork
1/2 pound ground veal
1/2 pound chicken livers, chopped well
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 cup dry white wine
4 tablespoons (about half a tube) tomato paste
1 cup light cream
sea salt, to taste
freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

Browning the Pancetta

In a heavy stock pot or dutch oven over medium heat, add the olive oil. Once hot, add the pancetta and cook until brown and rendered, about five minutes.

Cooking the Mirepoix

Add the shallot, celery ribs, and carrot. Cook for two minutes and then add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Continue cooking, stirring, until the vegetables are soft and translucent, about three more minutes. Do not brown the vegetables.

Raise heat to high. Add the pork, veal, and chicken livers. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the meat is browned but not yet fully cooked.

Add the thyme and stir to infuse.

Add the white wine and deglaze, scrapping the bottom of the pan.

Folding in the Light Cream and Tomato Paste

Add the tomato paste and light cream. Bring to a boil. Immediately reduce heat to just a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for two hours.

Simmering for Hours

You will have to try hard to overcook the ragù: The longer you simmer, the better. You want the liquid to slowly reduce and the fat to slowly render out, until the remaining ragù is thick, brown, and meaty, with even less liquid than these pictures.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and let rest. Use immediately or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1-2 days.