Risotto with Asparagus, Fennel Pollen, and Ricotta Salata

This is a unique and interesting dish, but it works.

Fennel pollen is the hand-collected microgametophyte of wild fennel. It has a concentrated, but delicate, fennel taste, with floral honey-like notes. The yellowish-gold powder is not cheap, but a little goes a very long way. Perfect on scallops, pork, and blanched vegetables, the fennel pollen is what makes this dish.

Ricotta salata is a dense, slightly spongy cheese with heavy notes of fresh milk and salt. Not your ordinary ricotta—ricotta just means recooked—ricotta salata is great in salads or served cool atop grilled vegetables. It is not a great melting cheese, so you rarely see it in risottos as featured here. But if you grate the ricotta salata very fine—a food processor works well—and integrate with a little extra cooking liquid, it makes an interesting coat over the rice.

Risotto with Asparagus, Fennel Pollen, and Ricotta Salata

Makes four servings.

Ingredients:

3 quarts water
2 tablespoons sea salt, to salt water
18 medium-sized spears asparagus, bottoms trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 shallots, diced
1.5 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
2 teaspoons fennel pollen
1/2 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup freshly and finely-grated ricotta salata, as fine as possible, plus four "peels" for garnish
1/4 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped
2 tablespoon fresh chive, chopped, to garnish
gray salt, to taste
freshly-ground white pepper, to taste

Blanching the Asparagus

In a stockpot or sauce pan, bring 3 quarts of water with 2 tablespoons of sea salt to a boil. The proportions matter as we are going to use the cooking water for our risotto. Once boiling, add the asparagus. Blanch for 90 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, remove the asparagus and submerge in an ice bath. Drain. Cut into 1" long pieces and reserve. Lower heat to a gentle simmer, just enough to keep the cooking water warm.

Heat a saute pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the shallot and saute until just soft, about four minutes.

Add the rice to the pan and, stirring frequently, toast until opaque, about 90 seconds.

Add the fennel pollen and stir to coat.

Add the white wine, scrapping the bottom of the pan to deglaze. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid is almost gone.

Cooking the Risotto

Decrease heat to medium-low. Add a ladle of the asparagus cooking water to the pan, just enough to cover the rice. Stir frequently, until the water is all but completely evaporated. Continue, a ladle at a time, until the risotto is cooked, slightly al dente, and creamy. This should take about 30 minutes.

Add the asparagus to the rice and cook just long enough to return it to temperature and integrate.

Remove from heat. Add the butter, the grated ricotta salata, and the chopped Italian parsley. Fold in. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. If needed, add more cooking liquid, a tablespoon at a time, to help the cheese coat the risotto.

Plated, Garnished, and Ready to Serve

Serve immediately, garnished with chopped chive and a peel of ricotta salata. Pairs as well as one can hope with a Garganega from Italy's Soave Classico DOC.