Caldo Gallego: Cuban White Bean Soup

Most Cuban dishes trace their provenance far outside of Cuba—to Spain of course, but also to Africa and even China. Caldo gallego, Galician stew, is no different. Originating in Spain's Galicia region and reinterpreted in the new world, caldo gallego is a potage of white beans, greens, garlic, ham hock, and sausage. Rustic yet complex, this dish is a great starter, but also a hearty main course for the winter.

Caldo Gallego: Cuban White Bean Soup

Growing up outside Miami, my fondest weekend lunch with my father was a cup of caldo gallego, a medianoche sandwich, and a demitasse of café cubano. Inspired by my favorite Cuban cafeterias, this is an authentic approach, but it is mine.

Makes 6 soup course-sized servings.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons olive oil, preferably Spanish
1 large Spanish yellow onion, diced
2 ribs celery, chopped
2 smoked ham hocks (about 1.75 pounds), skin scored
6 cloves garlic, diced
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon sweet paprika (pimentón dulce)
1 teaspoon hot paprika (pimentón picante)
10 cups water, filtered or spring
1 pound (about 2 cups) dried cannellini beans (alubias), rinsed, soaked overnight, rinsed again, drained
1 tablespoon gray salt, plus more to taste
1 pound new potatoes, peeled and diced large
1/2 pound fresh Spanish chorizo, sliced on a bias
1 pound turnip greens, coarsely chopped
freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

Sauteing the onion, celery, and ham hocks

Heat a heavy stock pot or dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil. Once hot, add the yellow onion, celery, and ham hocks. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and the ham hocks are brown, 6-7 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and bay leaves. Cook, stirring constantly, for 60 more seconds. Add the sweet and hot paprika and black pepper to taste. Stir to infuse. Add 10 cups of water.

Raise heat to high and bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 1 hour. Occasionally stir the liquid and rotate the ham hocks.

Simmering the cannellini beans

Add the cannellini beans to the pot. Raise heat to high and return to a boil. Immediately lower heat to a simmer. Cook at a simmer, uncovered, until the beans are just tender and edible, but still holding their shape firmly, about one hour. If needed, add more water, a cup at a time, to allow the beans to fully cook.

Remove the ham hocks from the pot. Set aside and let cool.

Add the gray salt and diced potatoes and cook for 20 minutes.

Smoked ham hocks, not fries

Meanwhile, once the ham hocks are cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the hock. Shred the meat and reserve. Discard the bone, the skin, and any remaining large pieces of fat.

Adding the turnip greens

Remove the bay leaves. Add the turnip greens, chorizo, and reserved ham hock meat to the pot. Stir.

Simmer until the potatoes, beans, greens, and chorizo are perfectly cooked

Continue cooking until the potatoes are tender, the beans are cooked and beginning to lose their shape (but are still intact), the turnip greens are cooked down, and the chorizo is cooked through, about 15 more minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Plated and Ready to Serve

Consume immediately, or let cool and reheat for a thicker, tastier soup. Serve in warm soup bowls with a fresh French baguette—or, if possible, Cuban bread. Pairs okay with a Carmenère from Chile's Cachapoal Valley.