Thursday, November 6, 2008

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips

This chowder does not have any potatoes—the corn has plenty of starch, plus we make a roux. Nonetheless, to make up for it, we garnish with truffled potato chips. They go so well with the corn and lobster that you have to wonder why this is not the norm.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips
Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips

Makes four to six servings.

Ingredients:

2 one-and-a-half pound Maine lobsters
1 tablespoon grape seed oil
1/2 pound pancetta, diced
1 large sweet yellow onion, diced
2 medium-sized leaks, white part only, diced
3 ribs celery, finely-chopped
2 jalapeños, diced
2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly-ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons fresh thyme
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
6 ears sweet corn, shucked, kernels and milk reserved to a bowl
4 cups lobster and corn stock (recipe)
4 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
1.5 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons chive, chopped, for garnish
12-18 truffled potato chips (recipe), to garnish
gray salt, to taste
freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips: Corn kernels and milk
Corn kernels and milk

To cook the lobster: Bring a large pot of heavily-salted water, 2/3rds full, to boil. Once boiling, drop the lobsters into the pot headfirst. Cook, covered, for seven minutes. Using tongs, transfer the lobster to an ice bath. Once cool, place the lobsters in a large mixing bowl and crack open with a mallet, reserving the juices in the bowl. Remove the meat from the tail and claw. Reserve the shells, any roe (bright red stuff), and other innards with the juice in the mixing bowl. Discard the tomalley (gross green stuff). Use the reserved shell and other bits for the stock.

Roughly chop the meat—it is not supposed to be fully cooked yet—and reserve.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips: Mise en Place
Mise en Place

In a large stockpot or dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the grape seed oil. Once hot, add the pancetta and cook until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden brown, about six minutes. Using a slotted spoon, reserve the pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips: Sauteing the vegetables
Sauteing the vegetables

Lower heat to medium. Discard all but three tablespoons of the rendered fat. If you have less than three tablespoons, add butter as needed. Add the onion, leeks, celery, jalapeños, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Saute, stirring, until the vegetables are soft but not brown, about four minutes.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips: Cooking the roux
Cooking the roux

Add the cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and thyme, stirring to coat. Add the all-purpose flour to make a roux. Cook, stirring, until the roux is starting to brown and bubble, 3-4 minutes.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips: Mixing in the corn
Mixing in the corn

Add the corn, stirring to mix. Cook for 60 seconds.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips: Simmering the soup
Simmering the soup

Add the lobster and corn stock. Raise heat to high and bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips
Folding in the heavy cream

Add the reserved pancetta, chopped lobster meat, and Italian parsley. Fold in the heavy cream. Simmer, stirring, until the ingredients are integrated and the lobster meat is fully cooked, about six minutes.

Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder with Truffled Potato Chips
Plated, Garnished, and Ready to Serve

Serve in warm soup bowls, garnished with two or three truffled potato chips and a sprinkling of chopped chive. Pairs well with an oaked Chardonnay from California's Napa Valley.

Variation: To make a lobsterless chowder—also delicious, just different—ditch the lobster, replace the lobster stock with chicken stock, and use only one cup of heavy cream.

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