Ragù di Funghi: Mushroom Ragù

Like my ragù alla bolognese, this recipe is bold and delicious. This version offers intense, concentrated mushroom flavor in a thick, creamy condimento. As much as I love the big, meaty punch of ragù alla bolognese, most days I would rather adorn my pasta with this umami-rich ragù di funghi.

My mushroom ragù calls for three types of mushroom: dried porcini and fresh shiitake and crimini. You can certainly substitute your favorite fungi, but the mushroomy woodsiness and umami notes from porcini and shiitake are hard to beat. Good porcinis, in particularly, are incredible fresh or dried and worth a hunt. The most exquisite are fungo di Borgotaro and porcino nero (tête de nègre in French). The former is a prized PGI-protected variant of the standard porcini, Boletus edulis. The latter is a related but different species of bolite, Boletus aereus. But are excellent fresh or dried.

Mushroom Ragù

Makes about 3 cups, sufficient for four servings.

Ingredients:

2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
3 cups warm water, filtered or spring
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, thinly-sliced
1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms, destemmed and chopped
1/2 pound crimini mushrooms, destemmed and chopped
1 cup brandy, preferably Cognac
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
4 tablespoons (about half a tube) tomato paste
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
1/2 cup heavy cream
sea salt, to taste
freshly-ground white pepper, to taste

Inspect the dry mushrooms, removing any grit. Place the dried mushrooms and warm water in a bowl. Let soak for 30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms, squeezing out as much excess water as possible. Chop them. Set aside and let dry. Strain the soaking water through a cheesecloth or coffee strainer and into a second bowl. Reserve.

Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil. Once hot, add the onions and saute, stirring, until soft and translucent but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant but not brown, about 1 more minute.

Raise heat to medium-high. Add the reconstituted porcinis, the shiitakes, and the criminis. Season with sea salt and white pepper to taste. Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms sweat most of their liquid and deflate, about 10 minutes.

Add the brandy and, scrapping the bottom of the pan, deglaze.

Slowly cooking until the liquid reduces and flavors concentrate

Add the thyme, tomato paste, and reserved mushroom liquid. Raise heat to high and bring to a boil. Once boiling, lower heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces and the mushrooms form a thick ragù, about 30 minutes.

Add the Italian parsley and heavy cream. Stir to incorporate. Cook until warmed through, thick, and integrated, about 3 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve as a condimento to fresh pasta or polenta, garnished with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.