Often the simplest pastas are the best. When parsnips are fresh—generally winter, after the first frost, in someone's hemisphere—buy a couple and you have a delicious and quick dish.

Rigatoni with Sauteed Parsnips and Pancetta
Makes four servings.
Ingredients:
1 pound rigatoni
1 teaspoon grape seed oil
1/3 pound pancetta, batoned into small lardons
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3/4 pound parsnips, peeled, ends trimmed, halved, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley
1/4 cup freshly and finely-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, preferably stravecchio, plus more to garnish
2 tablespoons chive, chopped
sea salt, to taste
freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

A Parsnip, ends trimmed
Bring a large pot of heavily-salted water to boil. Add the rigatoni to the pot and cook until a minute before al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid.

Pancetta Arrotolata
While the pasta is cooking, heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the grape seed oil. Once hot, add the pancetta and cook until brown and rendered, about six minutes. Add the garlic slices and saute for 60 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, reserve the pancetta and garlic to a paper towel-lined plate.

Sauteing the Parsnips
Lower heat to medium-low. Add the butter and stir to combine with the rendered pancetta fat. Add the parsnips and cook, stirring only occasionally to develop a good crisp, until golden brown, about six minutes. Season with salt and a lot of black pepper.

Combine the ingredients, toss to coat, and cook for 60 seconds
Add the reserved pancetta and garlic, parsley, pasta, and 1/4 cup of cooking liquid. Toss to coat. Cook for 60 seconds.
Remove from heat. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and stir to coat, adding more cooking liquid, a tablespoon at a time, if necessary to help everything incorporate and stick to the pasta.

Plated, garnished, and ready to serve
Plate into warm bowls, garnished with chopped chive and more Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pairs well with an Erste Lage Riesling from Germany's Mosel region.

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