This isn't my prized mushroom ragù, which is a thick, rich, mushroom-rich, umami fest. That dish is one of my favorites, but, for spring, I tweak the recipe a bit, aiming for a lighter, brighter ragù. The star of the dish is morel mushrooms, with their deep woodsy flavor and unique texture, which fruit for just a few months in the spring. Instead of heavy cream, we thicken this ragù by slow cooking the mushrooms with a good, gelatinous chicken stock.
I vacillated over the decision to put morel mushrooms in a ragù. One of morels' top attributes is their interesting, honeycomb texture. Their shape and feel is wonderful in the mouth. I subscribe to the "simple is better" philosophy with ingredients such as morels, and I definitely think they shine their brightest in a simple saute of butter and garnishing of thyme and sea salt. So go do that first. And then, on a cooler night, chop up a small handful and other springtime mushrooms and try out this ragù, perhaps with your favorite pasta or a big, steaming bowl of polenta, garnished with fresh herbs and a generous dollop of bovine ricotta. Morel mushrooms are not cheap, but I feel this dish is worth it.
Chicken stock provides this ragù's backbone. You will want to use a high quality, gelatinous stock—the thicker the better. We add it and several cups of liquid used to reconstitute dried porcinis and then we slow simmer the ragù, reducing it down until thick and meaty—all without cream. If possible, go with a homemade stock, and toss in chicken feet and extra bones. If homemade is undoable, a local specialty store's housemade stock is likely sufficient. If you use store-bought stock and find the ragù is not as thick as desired, a little heavy cream, reduced down, can thicken things up.
Makes about 3 cups, sufficient for 4 servings.
Ingredients:
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 cups filtered or spring warm water
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 green habanero chile peppers, seeded and chopped
1/4 pound morel mushrooms, chopped
1/4 pound spring mushrooms, such as oyster, wild enokitake, or torq
1/2 pound crimini mushrooms, stemmed and chopped
1 cup brandy, preferably Cognac
4 tablespoons (about half a tube) tomato paste
3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade and very gelatinous
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1/4 cup minced Italian parsley
sea salt, to taste
Inspect the dry mushrooms, removing any grit. Place the dried mushrooms and warm water in a bowl. Let soak for 30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms, squeezing out as much excess water as possible. Chop them. Set aside and let dry. Strain the soaking water through a cheesecloth or coffee strainer and into a second bowl. Reserve.
Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil. Once hot, add the onions and saute, stirring, until soft and translucent but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the habanero chile peppers and saute until fragrant but not brown, about 1 more minute.
Raise heat to medium-high. Add the reconstituted porcinis and the fresh mushrooms. Season with sea salt. Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms sweat most of their liquid and deflate, about 10 minutes.
Add the brandy and, scrapping the bottom of the pan, deglaze.
Add the tomato paste. Stir to heat through, about 30 seconds.
Add the reserved mushroom liquid and chicken stock. Adjust heat as needed to bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces and the mushrooms form a thick ragù, about 45 minutes.
Add the thyme and Italian parsley. Stir to incorporate. Taste and adjust sea salt.
Serve as a condimento to fresh pasta or polenta, garnished with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.