Spring is Sprung: Porcini and Ramps

Spring is here, and beautiful asparagus, fava beans, ramps, and fiddlehead ferns are arriving at the market. I'm even seeing some early peeks at green peas. But the happiest surprise was fresh porcini, which I so seldom have the opportunity with which to cook.

Fresh Porcini and Ramps

I bought the porcini without a plan. We were in the mood for pasta, so I rendered some guanciale and sauteed the porcini and ramp stalks. I tossed that with linguine, the ramp greens, the crispy guanciale lardons, and ricotta salada. Garnished with chive and served with a wine of the Grenache grape from the Priorat DOC in Catalonia, Spain.

Linguine, Ramps, Porcini, Guanciale, Ricotta Salata

Although the produce doesn't really start flowing until the summer, I love spring for its cap to winter doldrums, its fresh, green surprises. What are your favorite spring vegetables? And, if not spring, what is your favorite season, culinarily speaking?

Rigatoni all’Amatriciana Bianca

There is no agreement on the proper composition of pasta all’Amatriciana. To my palate, some of the ingredients are beyond debate—of course I want garlic, of course I want onion. But tomato—as featured in my bucatini all’Amatriciana rossa recipe—is far from a given. Instead of a red sauce, this recipe prepares the dish bianca, making a condimento from the rendered guanciale mixed with pecorino-romano and parsley.

Rigatoni all’Amatriciana Bianca

Some might call this recipe pasta alla gricia, but that dish historically added sausage to the guanciale. Whatever the name, this is the old world style, as the pasta might appear before the introduction of tomatoes to Italy in the 18th century.

Guanciale

Makes four servings.

Ingredients:

1 teaspoon grape seed oil
1 lb guanciale, batoned into lardons
1 large red onion, halved and sliced thin
6 cloves garlic, pealed and sliced thin
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
1 pound rigatoni
1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped, plus more to garnish
1/3 cup pecorino-romano, plus more to garnish
sea salt, to taste
freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

Bring a large pot of heavily-salted water to boil. Add the rigatoni to the pot and cook until a minute before al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid.

While cooking the pasta, heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the grape seed oil. Once hot, add the guanciale and cook until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Reserve the guanciale to a paper towel-lined plate.

Lower heat to medium. Add the onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Season with salt and pepper. Saute until the onion is translucent and just starting to turn color, about 5 minutes.

Remove all but 1/4 cup of rendered fat. Return the guanciale to the pan. Add the rigatoni and 1/4 cup of the reserved cooking liquid to the saute pan. Stirring, cook for 60 seconds.

Folding in the pecorino-romano and the parsley

Remove from heat. Add the pecorino-romano and parsley to the pan. Fold in. Taste and adjust seasonings. Add more of the cooking liquid if the cheese is not sticking to the pasta.

Plated, garnished, and ready to serve

Plate into warm bowls, garnished with more pecorino-romano and parsley. Serve immediately. Pairs well with a Chilean Carmenère.

Mushrooms and Tofu en Brodo

Last night's dinner. Often the best dishes are inspired by what is fresh at the market. In this case, pounds of beautiful, earthy mushrooms:

Mushrooms and Tofu en Brodo

Hen of the wood, shiitake, chanterelle, and hedgehog mushrooms sautéed in garlic-infused olive oil; thyme; shallot; homemade tofu; homemade veal stock; garnish of scallion.